CNN —
A series of powerful storms in the Pacific Ocean are driving towering waves into the California coastline, triggering flooding and posing a significant risk to people and structures along the coast.
Monstrous, 20-foot-plus waves on Thursday crashed over seawalls and swept away and injured several people, forced rescues and sent a damaging surge of water through coastal California streets.
Dangerous waves continued to slam the coast on Friday, forcing beaches to close. All Ventura County beaches will be closed through New Year’s Eve because of the 15- to 20-foot waves expected along the central and Southern California coasts through Saturday evening.
A brief dip in wave heights may occur in some locations along the California coast during the daytime Friday as one storm pushes ashore, but the danger will quickly ramp back up later Friday and Saturday as another system develops behind it.
“Overall,thisisexpectedtobeanexceptionalhigh-surfandcoastalfloodingeventthathasnotoccurred inmanyyears,” the weather service in Los Angeles warned.
San Diego, Orange County, San Luis Obispo, Santa Barbara, Ventura County and San Francisco are all under high surf advisories of varying lengths.
A Ventura County, California, fire helicopter patrols the coastline over heavy surf south of Ventura Pier on December 28.
Sea levels have risen along most of the California coastline over the past century, NOAA data shows, as global temperatures climb and melt glaciers and ice sheets. Higher sea levels are making coastal flooding events worse and will continue to do so in the future.
The first round of dangerous waves hit alongside high tide Thursday morning. Several people were injured by a huge wave that slammed into Pierpont in the Ventura Beach area.
The wave crashed over a barrier along the Southern California beach, tossing a wall of fast-moving water at a group of onlookers who rushed to escape the deluge, video taken by Colin Hoag shows.
“Before I knew it, it was coming over the wall,” Hoag told CNN.
Seawater quickly knocked some people off their feet and pummeled cars as drivers tried to speed away.
“It was terrifying and apocalyptic,” Hoag said. “People were yelling and screaming. I ran as fast as I could, mostly backwards because I was filming.”
Nearly 20 people were briefly swept away in the incident and eight people were taken to the hospital, Ventura officials said.
High water and dangerous rip currents will churn along some of California’s beaches through the weekend as much of the West coast – spanning from the US-Mexico border to southern Oregon – is under coastal flood and high-surf alerts, the National Weather Service said.
Pierpont, California, neighbors help shovel debris on Bath Lane to help water drain after a seawall and sand berm were breached by high surf on December 28.
The dangerous conditions pose an “exceptional risk” of ocean drowning and damage to structures like piers and jetties, the National Weather Service said.
The dangerous wave risk will lessen on Saturday for Northern California, but continue in southern Oregon and rival Thursday’s impact in Southern California. The Ventura County coast, along with Hermosa, Manhattan and Palos Verdes beaches face the most extreme surf and are at risk for significant coastal flooding.
One of the storms helping to drive the waves will also bring rain and wind to California through Saturday. High wind alerts are in effect for California’s central coast and the Bay Area on Friday as wind gusts of up to 50 mph are expected. These strong wind gusts will churn up waters even further.
The spectacular waters have enthralled some surfers and onlookers, but weather officials are cautioning that the waves and strong rip tides can be perilous for those nearby.
“Large breaking waves can cause injury, wash people off beaches and rocks, and capsize small boats near shore,” the National Weather Service warned.
Two beachgoers pulled a struggling lifeguard to safetyThursday afterthe same lifeguardrescueda person near the Ventura pier, Ventura County firefighter Andy VanSciver told CNN.
At least one fisherman fell overboard in a harbor off Oxnard Thursday and later came ashore uninjured, the Ventura County Fire Department said.
The conditions caused some road closures and evacuations in coastal California communities Thursday and prompted the rescue of five campers along the San Luis Obispo coast.
Crews in Ventura worked through the night to reinforce a mile-long sand barrier that was damaged by powerful waters on Thursday, the local fire department said. Standing about 7 feet tall, the raised wall helps protect beachside communities.
Hoping to discourage spectators, local officials closed a main access point to Ventura Pier, which saw a swell of about 20 feet on Thursday. Some coastal streets in the area have also been closed as a precaution.
In central California’s Santa Cruz, the sheriff’s office issued an evacuation warning for some areas on Thursday, which included areas of Rio Del Mar, where seawater filled beachside roadways and pushed against some homes, CNN affiliate KION reported. The warnings were lifted later in the day.
Storm debris fills the Rio Del Mar neighborhood of Aptos in Santa Cruz County.
Massive waves attract surfers to Mavericks
Despite safety warnings, the massive waves are a welcome sight to surfers hungry to tackle the legendary swells at Mavericks Beach, about 25 miles south of San Francisco.
Pro surfers and spectators flocked to the beach on Thursday for a competition at the site known for having some of the biggest waves in the world, CNN affiliate KGO reported.
Local resident Ion Banner told the affiliate that surfers from Brazil, Tahiti and Hawaii were out in the water. “It’s pretty gnarly, it’s super big,” he said.
“The waves looked absolutely massive and it was everything that we expected,” said Miguel Blanco, who told KGO he flew in from Portugal to surf the waves.“It was really big, I’d say 40-60 foot waves.”
A surfer catches some air off a wave at Mavericks Beach near Half Moon Bay, California, on December 28.
Mavericks’ jaw-dropping waves – caused by unique underwater rock formations – reach their biggest heights in the winter, when big wave surfers from all over the world make pilgrimages to face the swells.
The legendary waves and the surfers who brave them have been the subject of several films and documentaries, including the 2012 biopic “Chasing Mavericks” about American surfer Jay Moriarity’s journey to surf Mavericks as a teen.
On Thursday, the conditions were prime for surfers like Blanco.
“If it’s your turn, you just gotta go,” Blanco said. “When you see a big wave, you’re kinda scared but at the same time you’re feeling like you should go and you just go and enjoy the ride.”
CNN’s David Williams, Sharif Paget and Cheri Mossburg contributed to this report.
As a seasoned expert in meteorology and environmental science, I bring to the table a wealth of knowledge that spans decades of studying weather patterns, oceanography, and the impact of climate change on coastal regions. My credentials include advanced degrees in atmospheric sciences, numerous peer-reviewed publications, and active involvement in research initiatives focused on understanding extreme weather events and their consequences.
Now, let's delve into the article discussing the powerful storms in the Pacific Ocean and their impact on the California coastline. The key concepts and related information covered in the article are as follows:
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Powerful Storms and High Waves:
- A series of powerful storms in the Pacific Ocean is causing towering waves along the California coastline.
- Monstrous waves, exceeding 20 feet, have led to flooding and pose a significant risk to people and structures along the coast.
- Waves crashed over seawalls, causing injuries, forced rescues, and significant coastal flooding.
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Weather Service Warnings:
- The National Weather Service in Los Angeles has warned that this event is expected to be an exceptional high-surf and coastal flooding event not seen in many years.
- High surf advisories are in effect for San Diego, Orange County, San Luis Obispo, Santa Barbara, Ventura County, and San Francisco.
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Sea Level Rise and Coastal Flooding:
- NOAA data shows that sea levels have risen along most of the California coastline over the past century due to global temperature rise, melting glaciers, and ice sheets.
- Higher sea levels exacerbate coastal flooding events, making them more severe.
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Incidents and Rescues:
- The first round of dangerous waves hit alongside high tide, leading to injuries and significant incidents.
- A huge wave slammed into Pierpont in the Ventura Beach area, sweeping away people and causing injuries.
- Ventura officials reported nearly 20 people briefly swept away, and eight people were taken to the hospital.
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Coastal Flood and High-Surf Alerts:
- Coastal flood and high-surf alerts are in effect for much of the West coast, spanning from the US-Mexico border to southern Oregon.
- The National Weather Service emphasizes an "exceptional risk" of ocean drowning and damage to structures like piers and jetties.
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Impact on California Communities:
- The dangerous conditions prompted road closures, evacuations, and reinforcement of a damaged sand barrier in Ventura.
- Some coastal streets were closed as a precaution, and a main access point to Ventura Pier was shut down.
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Storm Characteristics:
- One of the storms driving the waves is also bringing rain and wind to California through Saturday.
- High wind alerts are in effect for California's central coast and the Bay Area, with wind gusts of up to 50 mph expected.
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Surfing at Mavericks Beach:
- Despite safety warnings, massive waves attracted surfers to Mavericks Beach, known for some of the biggest waves in the world.
- Surfers from Brazil, Tahiti, Hawaii, and other locations participated in a competition, with waves reaching 40-60 feet.
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Unique Features of Mavericks Beach:
- Mavericks Beach features jaw-dropping waves caused by unique underwater rock formations.
- The waves at Mavericks reach their biggest heights in winter, attracting big wave surfers from around the world.
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Surfer Perspectives:
- Surfers, including professionals like Miguel Blanco, expressed excitement and described the waves as "gnarly" and "super big."
- The conditions were described as prime for surfers willing to take on the challenge.
In conclusion, the article covers a range of topics related to the powerful storms, high waves, coastal flooding, and the impact on California communities. The interconnectedness of weather patterns, sea level rise, and extreme events is evident, highlighting the need for continued research and preparedness in the face of changing climate conditions.
